Let’s talk about the different volumes of developer!
If you’ve ever stood in the hair color aisle staring at developers and had absolutely no idea which one to grab, you’re not alone.
I answered this question constantly when I worked at Sally Beauty Supply. It’s one of those things that sounds complicated but is actually pretty simple once someone explains it clearly. So that’s what this post is going to do.
Here’s everything you need to know about the different volumes of developer, what each one does, and exactly which one to use for your specific situation.
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Table of Contents
What Does Developer Do?
Developer is hydrogen peroxide in a cream base, and it’s the second part of your hair color formula. You mix it with the actual dye to activate it, and without it, the color molecules can’t penetrate your hair shaft.
They’d just sit on the surface and wash right off.
Here’s how it works: developer opens the hair cuticle, which is the outer protective layer of each strand. This allows color molecules to get inside the cortex where they can do their job.
The higher the volume, the more it opens the cuticle, and the more lift you get.
The volumes of developer refer to how much hydrogen peroxide the developer contains. More peroxide means more lift. Less peroxide means more deposit.
Hair Levels: What You Need to Know First
Before we get into the specific volumes of developer, it helps to understand hair color levels because this is what makes everything else make sense.
Hair color is measured on a scale from 1 to 10. Level 1 is black and level 10 is the lightest blonde. The higher the number, the lighter the hair. For example, medium brown is a level 4.
When you’re coloring your hair, you need to know two things: your current level and your target level. You can usually find your target level by looking at the number on your hair color box.
A color labeled 5N means the target result is a level 5.
To clarify, this doesn’t explain the color’s hue; it’s just a way to measure how light or dark the color is.
Lift vs. Deposit
This is the other thing you need to understand before choosing a developer.
Lift means making the hair lighter. If your hair is a level 5 brown and you want to go to a level 7 blonde, you need to lift two levels.
Deposit means making the hair darker. If your hair is a level 7 and you want to go to a level 5, you’re depositing color.
The volume of developer you choose depends entirely on whether you’re lifting, depositing, or somewhere in between.
Keep in mind that virgin hair color (hair that has never been colored) reacts differently than colored hair. Read more about the golden rule of lifting hair color.
What Are The Different Volumes of Developer?
10 Volume Developer (10V / 3% peroxide)
10 volume is the gentlest developer and the one you use when you only want to deposit color without any lift. It barely opens the cuticle, just enough to let color molecules in without causing any lightening.
Use 10 volume when you’re going darker than your current color, applying a toner or glaze, using a demi-permanent color, or adding a tint without changing your level.
10 volume will not lighten your hair, so don’t expect lift when you use it.
✅ Best for: Toning, glazing, going darker, demi-permanent color
⚠️ Won’t work for: Gray coverage, lifting, or lightening
💬 Products worth trying: Clairol Pure White 10 Volume Developer
20 Volume Developer (20V / 6% peroxide)
20 volume is the most commonly used developer in professional salons, and for good reason. It lifts the hair 1-2 levels and provides enough processing power for reliable gray coverage, making it the sweet spot for most standard color applications.
When I was in the salon, 20 volume was my default developer for the majority of color services. Most women doing standard all-over color at home should be reaching for 20 volume automatically.
Use 20 volume when you’re covering gray hair, staying at your current level or going 1-2 levels lighter, doing an all-over color with a standard permanent dye, or touching up roots.
✅ Best for: Gray coverage, standard permanent color, 1-2 levels of lift
⚠️ Heads up: Not strong enough for significant lift on dark or resistant hair
💬 Products worth trying: Clairol Pure White 20 Volume Developer
30 Volume Developer (30V / 9% peroxide)
30 volume lifts the hair up to 3 levels and is the developer you reach for when 20 volume doesn’t cut it. It’s commonly used with lightener and for more significant color changes on virgin hair.
Use 30 volume when you need more than 2 levels of lift, you’re lightening dark virgin hair, you’re using a high-lift blonde color on virgin hair, or you have resistant gray that 20 volume isn’t fully covering.
30 volume is more powerful than 20 and causes more cuticle disruption, which means more potential for dryness and damage if the hair is already compromised. Always assess the condition of your hair before reaching for 30 volume.
✅ Best for: 2-3 levels of lift, lightening virgin hair, resistant gray
⚠️ Heads up: More damaging than 20 volume, so check your hair’s condition first
💬 Products worth trying: Clairol Pure White 30 Volume Developer
40 Volume Developer (40V / 12% peroxide)
40 volume is the strongest developer you should ever use at home. It lifts the hair up to 4 levels and is typically used with lightener or high-lift blonde color on coarse, resistant virgin hair.
Here’s my honest advice about 40 volume: be careful with it. When used with bleach, 40 volume can cause serious damage if the hair is already compromised, over-processed, or fine.
The lift is powerful, but so is the damage potential.
Some high-lift colors even require a double 40 volume application for extra lift, but that’s a very specific situation and not something I’d recommend attempting at home without a solid understanding of hair chemistry.
✅ Best for: Maximum lift, high-lift blonde color on virgin hair
⚠️ Heads up: The most damaging developer. Never use on compromised or previously bleached hair.
5 and 6 Volume Developer
These lower-strength developers don’t come up as often but they’re worth knowing about. 5 and 6 volume are typically used with glazes and toners where you want to activate the color with minimal effect on the cuticle. They’re also used in some demi-permanent color lines.
They won’t lift your hair at all and won’t provide gray coverage. Their only job is to activate the color molecules with gentle processing.
Which Developer Do I Use With Bleach?
This is one of the most common questions I got at Sally Beauty, so let’s address it directly.
With bleach, the developer you choose depends on how much lift you need and the condition of your hair.
20 volume with bleach gives you a slower, gentler lift and is best for fine or fragile hair, or when you’re doing a subtle lightening service. It gives you more control over the process.
30 volume with bleach is the most common choice for standard bleaching services because it offers a good balance of lift and control.
40 volume with bleach gives you maximum lift but also carries the highest damage risk. Only use this if you have coarse, resistant virgin hair that truly needs it, and never on damaged or previously chemically treated hair.
A general rule: when in doubt, go lower. You can always re-bleach if you need more lift, but you cannot undo damage from using too strong a developer.
Which Developer Do I Use for Gray Coverage?
20 volume developer is the standard recommendation for gray coverage. It opens the cuticle enough for color to penetrate resistant gray hair and provides reliable, even coverage.
If your gray is particularly resistant and you’re not getting full coverage with 20 volume, you can try 30 volume, but always start with 20 first.
One important note: 10 volume is almost never enough for gray coverage. The cuticle doesn’t open sufficiently for the color to fully penetrate resistant gray strands, which is why coverage often looks patchy or fades quickly when 10 volume is used.
What Happens If You Use the Wrong Developer?
This is the part nobody talks about enough, so let’s cover it directly.
If you use too low a volume, the color won’t lift enough and you’ll end up with a result that’s darker or less vibrant than you wanted. With gray coverage, you might get patchy, uneven results that fade quickly.
If you use too high a volume, the color processes too fast and can lift more than you intended, leaving you with uneven color or unexpected warmth. With bleach, using too high a volume on compromised hair can cause breakage, and in extreme cases it can cause serious damage.
Using a 40 volume developer with permanent color when you only needed 20 won’t give you extra lift. It will just damage your hair more. Higher is not always better.
Quick Reference Guide
| Situation | Use This Volume |
|---|---|
| Toning or glazing | 10 volume |
| Demi-permanent color | 10 volume |
| Going darker | 10 or 20 volume |
| Gray coverage | 20 volume |
| Staying at current level | 20 volume |
| Lifting 1-2 levels | 20 volume |
| Lifting 2-3 levels | 30 volume |
| Bleaching fine or fragile hair | 20 volume |
| Bleaching standard or resistant hair | 30 volume |
| High-lift blonde on virgin hair | 40 volume |
| Maximum lift on coarse virgin hair | 40 volume |
FAQ
What Are The Different Volumes of Developer?
The most common volumes of developer are 10, 20, 30, and 40. 10 volume deposits color without lift. 20 volume lifts 1-2 levels and is the standard for gray coverage. 30 volume lifts up to 3 levels. 40 volume lifts up to 4 levels and is the strongest developer recommended for home use.
Should I use 20 or 30 volume developer?
It depends on how much lift you need. If you’re covering gray or lifting 1-2 levels, use 20 volume. If you need 2-3 levels of lift or your gray is particularly resistant, use 30 volume. When in doubt, start with 20.
What is 20 volume developer used for?
20 volume is the most versatile developer. It’s used for gray coverage, standard permanent color, staying at your current level, and lifting 1-2 levels. It’s the developer most women should reach for by default.
Can I use 40 volume developer with hair color?
Yes, but only in specific situations such as high-lift blonde color on virgin hair or maximum lift on coarse, resistant hair. Never use 40 volume on damaged, fine, or previously bleached hair.
Does 30 volume developer lighten hair?
Yes. 30 volume developer lifts the hair up to 3 levels when used with permanent color or lightener.
Can I use 10 volume developer to lighten hair?
No. 10 volume is for deposit only and will not lift your hair color.
What happens if I use too high a volume developer?
The color processes too fast, which can cause uneven results, unexpected warmth, or significant damage. With bleach, using too high a volume on compromised hair can cause breakage. Higher volume is not always better.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right developer comes down to knowing two things: what you’re starting with and what you’re trying to achieve. Once you understand lift vs deposit and how the volumes of developer work, the decision becomes a lot more straightforward.
When in doubt, go lower. You can always do another process if you need more lift, but you can’t undo damage from going too strong. And if you’re ever unsure, that’s what professionals are for.
Until next time,
🌟 Your Turn: Did you learn something new about the different volumes of developer? Do you have any questions about how it all works? Drop your thoughts in the comments section below! 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼
🥰 Other Posts You’ll Like:
- The Definitive Guide to DIY Hair Color
- How to Use a Hair Toner For Brassiness: Step-By-Step Guide
- The Golden Rule of Lifting Hair Color
- The Different Types of Hair Color
- How To Bleach Dark Hair To A Light Blonde Color
I’m very confused. My hair is light brown and I bought a 5RM so it will darken it with red violet. But, I have a few gray hairs. So basically is it a 10 or 20 volume that I need?
It’s hard to tell without seeing your hair, but if you’re trying to go darker, you’ll want to use a 10v developer. 20v is typically best for grey coverage, but if you have a few grey hairs, it should be fine. Hope that helps!
My hair is white mixed with light blonde I want an ALL OVER COLOR OF CREAM blonde. What color should I use? I am afraid of hot roots, how to prevent this?
Hi, I had really dark brown hair and recently used L’Oréal high color in magenta and red and mixed with 30 V developer as I’ve seen so many reviews on this. Anyway I didn’t get a bright vibrant red like others. Wondering if I should now try the same with 40 V developer to achieve the brighter look?
Thank you for the clear explanation on hair coloring.
Using SoColor 11 A & maybe adding 1/4 11 N to cut gold with 40 V developer (Matrix). Can I add a powder bleach (Brite White) to developer. Then sun up that total amount & add the right amount of color to the developer/ per bleach.
That was perfect explanation
Thank you very much 🙏♥️
if i use 4 fl oz of darm brown color cream tube and 30 developer 1 0z. will that be dark
My question was if I use vol 10 on my grey roots will it be harmful after 30min. Nowhere can I find the answer.
@ALISON GRAY, Vol 10 developer only deposits color (usually used on pre-lightened hair) and is the least ‘harmful’ of the levels of developer.
For gray coverage, you’ll want to use 20 volume developer because grays tend to be resistant to color. Do follow the instructions on processing time (I think max is about 45 mins), and don’t over process because that could lead to damage.
Hope that helps and good luck coloring your hair. I hope it turns out beautifully. 🙂
Hello! Thank you for a wonderful article!
I was wondering, for deposit ONLY and Going from a level 4 to a level 3 using 3N permanent dark BROWN, would I only use a 10 developer? I’ve been using 20 my whole life, but after reading you article, I’m thinking maybe that’s why it fades so soon?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Help!
I’M a medium brown, who’s colored for decade. 5 yrs ago I went super light BLONDE…hated it, returned to a 5. Since then I’ve been using demi 5 w/10 to cover grays and maintain. Last night I tried a 5 w/20 and STREAKED IN 7 w/30. I thought it’d make me lighter but now I’m a dark brown. Where’d I go wrong?
(Not freaking out since it’s just demi, but still. Uhgg)
Black human hair 16 inch black color. Want to make medium brown. What should I use?
USING THE INFORMATION I’VE SEEN ON THIS PAGE IT SEEMS YOU WOULD USE A 30 Volume Developer (30V / 9% peroxide) TO lift the hair up to 3 levels higher WITH LIGHTENER WHICH IS commonly used.
If my hair is currently a dark Almost Purplish pink and i want to lighten it so I can Dye it a DIFFERENT color what level volume would you recommend?
Hello! Thank you for an informative article! Quick question…I have type 4 natural hair that’s has been previously dyed and is now red with orange hue. I would like to change the color to burgundy. Can I use a 30 volume developer with a 6.2 level burgundy color? Thank you in advance for your response!
What color if i Wang to color my blond hair light brown but dont Wang it to cime out so dark if i put 30 developer will it cime out a little lighter
I dye my hair 3NA Paul MITCHELL color is too DARK . How can i get my hair Back to a Dark blound LIGHT brown help PLEASE
Thank you FOR all the great explanations
hmmm, If someone has white hair, and wants to try ion’s permanent silver pearl,
it would seem to me that a 10 volume would be acceptable, becaue there is no real darkening.
Also, if for white hair, if someone was to try ion’s demi-perm “chrome”,
I would think the same 10 volume would be ok.
Am I wrong to believe that 10 volume is less harmful to hair than 20 volume? (ion’s version)
https://www.clairolpro.com/inside-clairol-pro/demi-semi-permanent-faqs#:~:text=What%20is%20semi%2Dpermanent%20color,a%20relaxer%20or%20perm%20service.
This site has great info all about semis, demis, grey blending….. Ect.
Heyyy, I have medium brown hair and wanted to dye my tips purple, I tried to do so with temporary dye but the purple wasn’t really visible so I decided to bleach my hair first. So what developer would you recommend I SHOULD use with my bleaching POWDER??? And how long should I leave my hair after bleaching to Apply the purple DYE?
You will need tp Bleach ends to LIGHTEN so That the pUrple with show ist using a 30 vol perox and take it to a light blonde …the
Lifhter the blon the brighter the purple….
Im naturally a Medium to slight dArk brunnette. i’ve been using overTone’s pink for Brown hair Hair and while I love the way their colors look on my Brown hair and how brigHt they come out, I hate th the color stains my tub when washing and my hands wh styling. I want to use a salon type color like Ion from Sally’s in a Purple or Magenta or a possible ombre of both and I was WONDERING if I’d Have to lighten my hair beforeHaNd and also what number deVeloper I should use When coloring my hair these colors?
I have dark brown haIr with ashy highlights. I want to dye My hair a Medium copper color. WHat DEVELOPER should i mix with the copper color dye ???
Hi hollie
Im going to attempt bleaching my daughters hair all over. She has previ had full head of foils bit doesnt want to go down that route again so optimg full head of bleach. Her roots are around an inch an half now what i want to know what percents should i use on her regrowth and the ends she is already around a level 8/9 ish but wants to get to platinum. Now do i start on lengths forwt then Roots as i know they take quicker at the root. Im am a wulified hairdresser but i havent used my skills in over 10 years so i know things chanfe and i want to brush up my skills.
Many thanks .
HeYyy
So I currently have a baliage going on wITh my hair ( done At the salon) but with covid and everything being closed i CaNt Go in to Get a touch up so im thinking of doing it my self but im a little scared of what developer i shoulD be Using iF 30 or 40 the last tIme i did my hair was In the BEGINNING of DECEMBER, i have natural super dark hair if not black i would saY … i am planIng on toning with wella t18 …
My hair is currently dyed copper red and a level 5, If i wanted to add some level 7 copper streaks would i use a 30 vol or a 20 vol? Would i need to Use any kind of Bleach or colour stripper first?
I have dark blond hair and would like to go to a 2V violet black. What developer level should I use? and is there anything that I need to do before I color it? This is the first time using this, I have used box stuff for years. Thanks in advance
I would follow the manufacturers directions… if it’s a permanent color, you can mix developer with it. When going darker, you’ll always want to use 10v. Hope that helps 🙂
Can I use Salon Care developer with WELLa color charm at the 1:2 ratio?
I would think that would be fine, but I’d definitely check with the manufacturer 🙂
Hi Hollie, I am medium to light BROWN ( natural medium, highlights light brown) and wish to go bright light COPPER red. Do I need to strip first before I color? I have about 10 percent grey. Should I use 20 or 30 v peroxide? Appreciate YOUr help!
Yes, I would strip it first. It depends on what your current level and target level are but you’d likely be okay using 20v. Hope that helps 🙂
hey!
First of all thanks for taking the time to answer the questions, really appreciate it:)
I have black asian hair that i dyed black again after i went chestnut Brown/Orange brown lol (So its black now, but only part of it is virgin black).
I wanted to bleach 2 strands of my hair blond by using color stripper first and then applying 30V Bleach (im too scared to use 40V, and i dont think i’ll need it if its just 2 Strands). It’s supposed to turn out like Narcissa Malfoy.
Side information, my (Virgin) hair bleaches very well (been to the salon before).
Do you think this will work? Any tips or extra information?
would really appreciate your help! <3
The part of your hair that has been colored will not lift as well as the virgin hair, but if you’ve only dyed it once, it shouldn’t be too bad. I’d say to maybe try a small test strand first to see what happens before doing the areas you want. I think your strategy sounds good, but the dyed areas might have some brassiness. Maybe look into using a toner to help with that. Let me know how it goes 🙂
My hair is black i colored it several times, the natural colir is black but i want to go medium golden brown ir golden brown which developer shoUld i use. Thank you
It really depends on what level the target color is, but it sounds like you’d need to live it at least four levels, in which case, you’d want to use a 40v developer. The best option would be to do a test strand with 40v to see how much it lightens before doing your whole head. Hope that helps 🙂
VeVery informative. I have black hair and I want to dYe a small Section of it blonde what developer should I use. Also do I need to tone it or will the blonde hair dye get it the color I need.
It really all depends on a few things… is your hair naturally black or colored that way? How many times has it been colored? You’ll probably need to use a 30-40v, regardless, but the more it has been colored, the harder it will be to lift it to the level of blonde you want. You’ll probably need to tone it for sure if you bleach it. If you’re using color, you might not need to tone it, but it probably won’t get that light either.
i have been dying my hair a plum colour for a few months and been using 20v but the lady suggested i use a 30v to get more purple out of it. I’m wondering if this will damage my hair amd if I should maybe mix the 20v and 30v instead of just using 30v.
I don’t think it will do much more damage. Maybe a tiny bit, but nothing too noticeable 🙂
Hi, i was wondering…if my hair color is about a 5 or a 6, and i want to dye the tips red (i should probably note that i have virgin hair) what developer should i use? -thanks
It really all depends on what level the red is, but I’d imagine that you’d probably want to use a 20v.
I have NATURALLY dark Dark Brown hair, right now my root is jeT black and my ends are a faded dark redish brown from a faded purple. I want to bleach my ends to get a intenSe dark purple what volume developer should i use.
It really depends on how dark your ends are and what condition they’re in, but usually ends are the most damaged. I’d probably start with a 20v or 30v and watch it carefully. Hope that helps 🙂
Hi.
I have roughly 29inch length hair. Was dyed 3 mths ago. My roots are level-2 black, mid way its level-6 blonde and the RESt to ends are reddish-dark brown. I want to acheive a honey blonde SHade all over. Without going to a salon.
*What developer(s) should I USE? Was thinking-30V?
*Can I use creme of nature (honey blonde) box dye after bleaching to achieve the right color?
*Or should I put the box dye I want in with the developer?
I would honestly recommend just investing in a salon visit because it sounds like a complicated formulation. You’ll probably need to use a different developer and formulation for each section. You might be able to soap cap it or bleach everything all out before applying a box color (with developer), but it may not have perfect coverage and some sections may be darker or different shades than the other. That’s why it’s best to have someone else help in this situation. Hope that helps! 🙂
Hi I black hair by birth . Ive done some highlights with reddish brown. Now I want to add some caramel brown highlights. Which developer shouldei use
If you’re trying to lighten the black hair, I’d probably say 30 or 40v, but it’s hard to tell without a picture 🙁
i dyed my hair a medium brown before and even have some highlights but i want to completely dye my hair burgundy now. if i want to a achieve a mulled wine tone without having to bleach my hair, what combination would be the most ideal? a 20v with a #6 hair dye? or a 30v with a #5 color?
I guess it depends on what level your hair is at now, but if you’re gonna be around the same level, I think you’ll do okay with a 20v. Loreal has some high-lift red colors that are supposed to work well with colored hair. However, I always recommend doing a test strand before dying all your hair so you can see how it goes. Hope that helps!
Hi
I have Light blond hair and i want To turn into black, should i use 10 vol along black col?
Yep 🙂
My hair is dark brown and IM trying to dye it red but i already bought 20 VOLUMe developer… will it work?
Is your hair naturally dark brown? or did you color it that way? If it’s naturally that color, it might lighten up to two levels higher. If not, you’ll have to bleach it first. Hope that helps 🙂
To go from a dark red to a dark brown (natural hair color) what would be best to lift the red out?
I probably would try to lift some of it out, unless you don’t mind the brown having a warm undertone.
if i want to tone a hair after bleaching it what developer should i use?
the girl has a level 7 to 8. i want to lift it to a 9ish level but make this greyish toned hair
Toners don’t usually lift hair… they just deposit tones to counteract the brassy tones, so usually, they require a 10 or 20v. But I would use whatever developer is recommended to use with the particular toner you’re using. The other option is that you can try using a level 9 ash color with a 20 or 30v to lift it a bit more while adding those tones. It’s probably best to do a test strand first to make sure it will lift how you want it to. Hope that helps!
What is the diFerence between a 30 volume Bright white Developer and the regular 30 volume developer??
I’d imagine that it’s just different brands or different color lines. 30v developer should be the same… but if a color line suggests using a certain type, it’s best to do that.
Hello if im using 5N color for roots i have some grays do you RECOMMEND a 10 developer or 20?
20V is best for grey coverage, so I’d probably go with that 🙂
What volume of developer should I use?
– i have shoulder length THIN, FINE HAIR
– i am currently around a level 6 and I want to go to around an icy level 8 or 9
Also, what is the difference between a bleach and a lightener? Are they the same thing? If not, then do you recommend using a bleach, permanent color, or a lightener mixed with the developer?
Also, my hair is previously dyed
“Lightener” is a less-frightening way to say “bleach” haha… but they are the same thing. You’ll have to lighten your hair or strip the hair color out before you can get to a level 8 or 9. Just be careful because fine hair has a harder time with bleach, but that would also be your best bet to get light enough… You can always try doing a test strand to see how your hair tolerates the bleach (maybe do a small section behind your ear, so you can cover it up). Once you get your hair light enough, you can tone it with an icy toner. Hope that helps!
My hair is naturally, probably, level 4. I want silver from root about halfway down the shaft into lavender the rest of the way to the tops. I have ‘n rage white out kit, ion color brilliance permanent creme (silver pearl) color, and ion color brilliance brights semi-permanent (lavender) creme color. I didn’t realize until after I bought them that I would need developer for the silver, but am unsure of what volume I need to use. It’s probably been 10+ years since I have put color of any kind in my hair. Please help!! I don’t want to destroy my hair
That sounds really cool but definitely a lot of work! You’ll want to use 10V with the silver to deposit (since your hair will have been previously lightened). The only thing I recommend is probably contacting the manufacturer (the phone number should be somewhere in the box), and asking if it’s okay to mix the semi-permanent and permanent colors together. I’d assume that you’ll be coloring them at the same time, and if they overlap, I don’t know if it will cause a bad reaction or not. Since they are from the same manufacturer, they should have some good insight on that. Hope that helps!
This article was exactly what i needed. Also I DON’T KNOW if this comment will be in all caps because it doesn’t seem i can change it. However, I just wanted to say that this article was the most useful, elaborated, and easily understood thing i’ve ever read about hair developer/coloring/lifting Vs. depositing and i’m extremely grateful for this.
Yay! Thank you for the kind words! I’m glad to help! 🙂
How can i make my own 6v developer? I know how to make 5v but am stumped on how to make my own 6v. Thanks!!
I’m not really sure why you would need to make 6v developer? Is there a reason for it?
Hi, first thank you so much for all this incred information. Its super detailed. I nust want to make sure im understanding correctly. Im a 4, but i want to be blonde. I want to use the willa t18 toner to be a light ash blonde. So like a 9? Do i need to use two Levels of Developers? A 40 to bleach and another level to tone?
You would have to lighten your hair with bleach before toning it. If you don’t have any color on your hair, you can use a high-lift color, but usually, you’ll need bleach to go that much lighter. I probably wouldn’t use 40v with bleach… maybe 30 to be safe (40 is really harsh on the hair). And you would definitely use a different developer for the toner… usually, toners need 10 or 20v, but I always recommend following the manufacturer’s directions because all color lines are different. Hope that helps!
Hi my natural color is 5 dark Bland Blond, I used a Swortzkof 3.5, now I have gone 3 before in another brand and at Salon but this color is terrible and my roots look like 10 growing out. I want to get back to a 6 or 5 my hair is Polynesian Thick!
What should I do?
That sounds like it could be a lot of work to get back to normal, but if you’re willing to try… I would probably recommend stripping your hair or lightening it with bleach, before coloring it with a level 5 or 6 of your choosing. If your hair is brassy after lightening it/stripping it, you can use an ash-based color to tone out the warm tones. Obviously, my best advice was to have a professional do this process, but that’s hard right now with the salons closed down. I hope everything goes well!
Thanks a lot for the arTicle- really useful! Q: i intend to use 10vol Loreal inoa wItH majirel to geT the cOlour in. MaJirel instructs to use the ratio 1:1.5, but only 20 or 30 vol. 10 vol inoa Says to use raTio 1:1. What would yoUr advise be on the ratio? Thanks
I’m not familiar with those color lines, but I would recommend using the developer that is meant to use with the Loreal and following manufacturer directions. Hope that helps!
Hi, I’m touchin up my grey roots on MEDIUM dark brown hair & USUALLY use 2 colors mixed together 6.0 (to cover grey) & 5.35. Should i use 6.0 or just 6. I find mixin two colors gives a highlights effect. Also how much 20vol to use… 1:1 or more 20vol than color?? Please
It’s perfectly fine to mix two colors together if you want… I’d just recommend that they both come from the same color line. Usually, developer is a 1:1 ratio, but double-check with the manufacturer directions of the color line. Every color line is different and it’s best to double-check. Hope that helps 🙂
So say I want to use 40V to get the really dark out in order to place very bright and vibrant colors, would I mix the vibrant colors with 10v? I ask because I’m doing my sisters hair soon. She bleached it a few months ago so she has kinda orange blond hair so I get I would to 20v for that part, but since its been a few months her natural hair has grown out, would I be able to use 30v on the roots? I want to make sure these bright colors stick in her hair long term.
For the vibrant colors, it depends on what type of color you’re using. If it’s semi-permanent like Manic Panic, there is no need to mix it with the developer. If it’s a permanent color, I’d just follow directions. Typically, you’d want to bleach it first and then add the colors over it, which you’d use a 10 or 20v to do.
30V is safe to use with bleach on the roots, but make sure the bleach is safe to put on the scalp. Also, note that bleach processes faster on the scalp because of body heat. 20V is good to go over the previously bleached areas, but just watch it carefully and deep condition before and after. Hope that helps!
Can i use 10vol developer with hair stain to make it last linger?
I wouldn’t recommend doing that unless the manufacturer approved it. You can usually call them and ask 🙂
My Roots are a natural 5 closer to 6. The halo part that was dyed prior to it growing is a 4 and the middle to ends are a 5 due to fading.
I bought a 20 volume but now thinking i shouldve gotten 10 volume
How would you go about Dying it with the volume i haVe?
It’s hard to say without testing, but I’d imagine that using the 20v would work. You can always try a small area first to see how it matches up. Otherwise, you’d have to purchase 10v. Hope that helps 🙂
Hi, i stumbled across your blog by chance. I had between level 2-3 dark brown hair originally, but i had a balayage done RECENTLY whCh lifted my hair to about a Level 6-7. Ive managed to tone down the orange slightly but I still want to get a lighter colour to a level 8/9. How can i do this mySelf?
I honestly wouldn’t try to do this yourself unless you absolutely know what you’re doing. It could mess up the balayage if you don’t follow the exact lines. To get to a lighter color, you’ll have to bleach it, which could really mess up the rest of your hair. It’s also good to give the previously bleached hair a bit of time to recover before you bleach it again. Sometimes, going lighter is a process that takes some time. Hope that helps!
Hello, I’m looking for some advice on coloring my hair. I have recently had my roots touched up without adding highlights to my PREVIOUSLY highlighted hair and now my roots are very dark (dark brown), it looks like I have 2″ of new growth and the rest of my hair is getting really light with the highlights…..too light!
Can I use a 20% developer with a wella 7a on the roots (which now there is some new growth) and a 10% with a toner for the lighter part to darken? and which toner shade would you recommend to darken the previous highlights?
Thank you
I honestly wouldn’t recommend doing that because color correction can get really tricky. If you have color on your roots, it’s a really bad idea to try to lift them with color. You usually have to strip the color first or bleach it. Otherwise, it’s like trying to use a yellow marker over a brown marker… it doesn’t lift correctly.
You can definitely tone down the lighter color… the shade is really up to your preference. If you like ashy colors, Wella T14/T18 are good. You can also go by what shade your highlights are. If they’re more brassy, the ash color would cancel that out… if they’re yellow, you can go with a purple-based toner to cancel it out. It really all depends on what they currently look like and what you want them to look like.
I really want to dye my hair but I’m afraid of damage
Depending on what type of color your use and what color you go, you may get little to no damage. What is your natural color and what color do you want?
Hi Hollee,
i want to highlight my hair with a cap. I have LowlighTs so i will be highlighting the growth and any dark hair i pull out. Since i have grey hair i have dyed my roots medium brown (natural hair is Dark brOwn). ShoUld i use 20 vol or 30? Can i used 20 to be on the safe side? When i go to the salon they bleach my hair like three hours.
20V is definitely best for grey coverage, so I’d make sure to use 20v for the base color. However, it might be better to go with 30v to bleach out the highlights since you’ll have to break through the color you already put on your hair. I would imagine that they may be a bit brassy, so I’d look into using a toner… but if you do fine highlights, they should blend perfectly 🙂
Which perOxide is the best when dyinyg your hAiR blond to
Cover the grey. Is it bLue
or white PEROXIDE?
20 volume developer is always best for grey coverage. Usually the blue or white depends on the type of bleach you use. Blue-based bleach is best if you hair pulls orange… otherwise, the white is good 🙂
Hi
I dye my hair darker brown and recently my roots wont take. They are lighter “hot roots” I dont understand why. help!
I use matrix socolor 3n 1 oz. And 4n 1oz with 20 volume
How can I fix this
I have 3 bottles of color because I have very thick and long hair but I don’t have enough 30 volume developer left. I need almost 2 more oz. All the supply stores are closed right now so the only way to get developer is to go to Walmart and buy a box of dye but I don’t know what volume the box dyes use. Do any of them use 30? Or would it be ok to add a little water ? I already lifted my hair with bleach but now I am going to darken it and tone it down just a bit to a very light champagne blonde. The number code on it is a 40D if that helps.
I think most box colors use 20v but it could vary from color to color. The best bet would be to contact the manufacturer and ask them. Adding water would dilute the developer, which will make it less powerful (I’ve never done this though, so I can’t give any advice on how to do it). However, if you are trying to go darker, you’d probably be better off with a 10V or 20V anyways, which will deposit color into your hair. 30V is made to lift, not deposit.
Hope that helps!
Ok i bleached my hair but i dont lije it how can i get the bleach out or how do i color over it with out it Looking ugly i want to color it a redd brown
Hi Karry! Great question! There really isn’t a way to remove bleach… it doesn’t really stay in your hair, just removes the color molecules and washes out. You can definitely color over it, but you’ll want to look up how to put the color molecules back in your hair before coloring it. This is called a “color filler”… I don’t really have a quick article about doing a filler yet, but I go over it in my definitive guide to DIY hair color. Hope that helps!
Hi ive got Strong natural level 2 hair. I Self balayaged my hair (it looks ok!) But the lightened parts are now a very orange lEvel 6/7. I have since let my hair “rest” aNd recover with olaplex treatments and re-bleached again only i cant seem to lift Any more levels! Im using 40vol and Hi bleAch powder like i always have. All i want Is to bleach light enough to leT a cooler toner work. I ideally want level 8/9 balayage, Do i need to drop down to 20 or 30 vol?
That is really interesting! I’m not sure why it isn’t lifting… it sounds like your color molecules are tightly packed in your hair! Have you previously colored the hair you’re trying to lighten? Anyways, using bleach over and over the same area (especially with 40v) is a bad idea. It will eventually melt that hair off. While it is best to give it time in between, there is only so much you can repair your hair in between.
I would definitely drop down to a 20 if you go over it again with bleach, but I would try as hard as you can to not bleach it again…or wait a while at least. Hope that helps!
Hi! I colored my hair With wella PROFESSIONAL no. 5 (with 20volume), but would rather like it to be at a level 6 (my natuRal haie color is about a 6 or 7, but very dull), how whould i go about this??
Hmmm. I would probably recommend doing a soap cap to slightly lighten your hair without too much damage and then go over it with the color you want.
I desperately need advice in letting my hair color grow out. I am 72, about 50% gray and haven’t seen my natural color since about 16 years old. I have used Keune color professionaly applied for the last 20 years. I went to someone else that used a different product and now my hair is orange and dry. I had it cut fairly short to grow off the color but need help with blending gray roots in the growing out phase. Thanks.
Hi Rita! I’m so sorry it took so long to respond. I love Keune color! I used it at one salon I worked at and it’s really good stuff!
So I would probably go back to your original stylist and see if they can tone out the orange color for now (if you still need it).
As for growing out your natural color… I guess it really depends on how dark your color is… it’s hard to give perfect advice without seeing what your hair looks like. If it’s really dark, I would probably recommend lightening it to a softer color first. You can also get a lot of subtle highlights added in to match your natural color. I would increase the number of highlights over time until it blends your natural color out. Hope that helps! 🙂
Hi, i am planning to color my GREy root and have the rest of the remaining hair lighter in 2 SHADES.is it advisable on the same color 6% for ROOt and 9% on the remaining hair to COLOR.trying It For the first TIME.please advise THAnks.
Thanks for the question! Are you just going to be coloring the grey the same color as the rest of your hair? You can probably just apply the color to your roots and then just run it through the rest of the hair for a few minutes before you wash it out. If you let it process the whole time that the roots need to process, it will probably get pretty dark. Does that help? If not, let me know!
hi there,ihave very resistant white hair and would like to know if i can use a 20 developer on my hair first then put a light blone on top.many tanks
That is actually a great idea! It will help open the cuticle so that the color can penetrate. Just use the 20v developer by it self for 5-10 minutes and then wipe it off before applying the color (no need to wash). Hope that helps!
Hi my hair is ViRgin At my roots and aboUt an iNch down i haVe black dyed hair aNd then the rest is bleached To about a level 5.i wanna go A beAutiful meduim-dark red.idk what volume to use for wHat sections of my hair.****im planning on using loreal high color In The color magenta.
Thanks for the question! To be completely honest, this sounds like a complicated dye job. The hair that is dyed black will need to be bleached before applying the color. The virgin hair will process differently than the other hair.. and you will have to “fill” the blonde hair before adding in new color (I’d check online to see what filling method loreal recommends before using that line).
If you could get all of the hair to a solid color (by bleaching the black and virgin hair) and then maybe filling the really light hair before coloring it, that would be your best bet.
Sorry it isn’t more help, but it really does seem complicated and could end up not looking good. Hope this helps a little at least 🙂
Hi Hollie. I want to highlight my hair at home .I have just bought marjiblond 900S and 20 volume developer. I coloured my hair globally last week to a dark BROWN.Is the 20 volume developer ok for the highlights I want. And can I now highlight my hair
I’m not sure what the marjiblond 900s is, but you will definitely want to use bleach to get the best results. A blonde dye might lift out the dark color a bit, but it probably won’t look like you want it to.
If it is bleach and you give it a try, it’s definitely okay to do highlights now and 20v developer will work (although it might take a while). Depending on how dark your brown is, it might be better to step up to 30v.
Hope that helps 🙂
Great explanation, helped me a lot. Thanks
I have mostly gray roots And brown/ red shade colOred hair my roots always turn out lighter than the rest if my colored hair and barely Covers the Gray with 20 developer. Should i use 10 developer to cover my grays and have even color?
Hi,
I’d like to know if there is a way to use 20 volume developer for your roots and a 10 volume mix of the same color on the rest of the hair.
I don’t want to keep putting 20 vol. All over my head every time.
I do know about combing the color through the ends the last 10-15 minutes of processing.
Would mixing up a 10 VOL.be better or even a 15 vol Mixture?
I just don’t want to fry my hair.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!!
Hey I stumbled across your blog by accident. If I can just help you out a bit…
The volume of peroxide refers to the amount of extra oxygen in the solution. 20 volume peroxide (H2O2) has 20 times more oxygen than water (H2O). The peroxide does 2 things and neither of them is “opening the cuticle of the hair”. Peroxide shatters natural pigment (melanosomes), allowing light to pass through and make the hair appear lighter. It also develops the color molecules, they become larger so they can not wash out of the cortex. The ammonia in the hair color opens the cuticle to allow the color molecules in. 50 volume peroxide is widely used and sometimes 60 volume, you have to know what you’re doing. 10 volume is the most effective for gray coverage, not 20 volume as some color companies would have you believe and all of this depends on the fabric of the hair you are working with. I teach a class on all of this if you would like to attend. coastlineedu.com
That is insanely interesting! Thank you so much for that information!
I have fine very long hair, im trying to blend grey while doing as minimal damage as possible to my hair im using a demi per color with a 10 vol developer , i did 30 mins didnt cover as well as expected. What would you reccomend for best results? Will it hurt to leave it 45 mins?
Hi Joy! Thanks for the question! While it wouldn’t hurt to leave the color on for 45 minutes, I don’t think it would do much to help you. Demi permanent colors are not meant to fully cover greys.. in fact, I see a lot of “grey blending” hair colors that are demi-permanent… they just work by toning down the grey a little bit and blending it in better. 20 volume is usually the preferred developer for grey coverage, although I would use the developer that is meant for the color you are using. If you want more coverage, you can look into a permanent color that is designed for grey coverage. Hope this helps 🙂
Ok, weird question for anyone who might know…
I cannot get my hair to bleach white like I have done in the past..22yrs-31yrs old…always easy with 40 vol., clairol blue & 2 packets of “powder”..15-20mins.
Now…nothing I do works…bumped up the developer & the time.
I can only get a pale yellow…I’m tryn not 2 use a toner…I just want, literally, white hair..
Question is; is it due to menopause? Or the absence of natural hormones & having to take replacement hormones..
It has stumped me… because bleaching shd remove all color from hair. My hair is fine, straight and a natural light fawn or ash blonde. And easily lightens naturally in the sun.
So what gives? Why cannot 40 vol. 2 packets of activating powder & clairol “blue” for 45mins remove all pigment from blonde hair?
That is a really good question and I’m going to look into writing a blog post about it! I’m not 100% sure what is causing your problems, but I would think that it’s likely that menopause has changed your hair composition from what it used to be. The hormonal changes can make your hair react differently to the color changes. Similarly, I think it could be possible that replacement hormones could change your hair as well.
There could also be other factors like if you had darker color in your hair at one point (that hasn’t grown out yet). I’m not really sure what the solution to your problem would be, besides to tone it or go to a professional. I would definitely not bleach over the previously bleached hair with 40 volume again… maybe after a while., you can try to lighten it more with a very low volume developer, but please be super careful if you do this. I don’t want you to melt all your hair off. Good luck!
Hey Hollie, I just wanted to ask which product is recommended for Indian brown hair to achieve lighter hair, currently my hair is colored and it’s a shade of brown very close to my natural hair color. I would like to color my hair at home and give them a reddish brown color.
Hi Sanika! Thanks for the question! Hmmm. It really depends on how dark your hair is now and what the level of the reddish brown you want is. If you want it much lighter, you will need to lighten it before applying the reddish brown color. If you don’t mind it being darker, you can just color over what you have now. Just be aware that if your roots are a different color (like, if your hair has grown out), you might have to process them differently, otherwise they will turn super red. Hope this helps. Good luck!
very good!
The person who wrote this is a professional none professional wouldn’t know the difference just saying to those who talking shit and 40% can be used as 20% when watered down
i dont think this is written professinaly becauuse they spell colour as (color) but other from that abso great for information 🙂
I currently don’t work as a hairsylist (although I’m still licensed and do side work) but I spent 9 years in the salon as a professional. Anyways, I’ve rarely ever seen it spelled “colour”. I always thought that was how countries outside of the U.S. spelled it.
In the US, “color” is the correct spelling. Also, professionals are human and make mistakes as well lol.
Hi, I am going to dye the back of my hair purple. I’ve already done it a few times but I found a purple that is permanent. The package says use 10 developer. I have 20 developer. My hair was bleached to about a 5-6. Will the 20 be ok to use?
Hi Mary! Sorry it took so long to write back! 10 volume will be best for deposit. 20 volume will still deposit, but not as much. It will work but probably won’t be as vibrant and/or won’t last as long as it would have with a 10v. Hope that helps!
“color” is US, “colour” is Canadian. We also spell “neighbour” instead of “neighbor” .. Canada. We like to put the “u” in everything lol
That’s the British spelling of the word. *rolls eyes*
Try to find a licensed professional… that’s my recommendation.
Hello. I find this article very useful. I would like to ask this. I died my hair with Syoss 6-76 (copper) dye, which is a little bit lighter than my natural hair (medium brown); however, the dye didn’t cover all of my grays. My question is if I can put 6 % peroxide instead of the color developer that comes in the original dye box to get a better result and in what ratio should I put it- the same as with the color developer (1:1)? Thank you.
Theoretically, I would think that would work, but of course, I should recommend following the directions provided by the company that makes the product, since I don’t know anything about that product. If you do decide to do it, do a 1:1 ratio. 🙂
What is volume means? Sorry for my ignorant question ?
It basically means the level of developer. It has to do with the ratio of peroxide… higher volume means stronger developer.
so helpful, thanks
Use 20 volume perioxide
Hi 🙂 I am attempting to color my hair myself, for the first time in years! My formula is 1 part level 4 & 1.5 part level 5 with a 20 vol. developer. My friend, who is a stylist told me I should use a 10 vol. developer. My hair is currently colored & at a level 5 with few level 7 highlights & I want to stay at a level 5, what should I do??
20vol will lighten your hair 1-2 shades. Which is good when you’re adding a color on top. I made the mistake of using a 10vol and now my hair is a shade darker. Which I didn’t want, but it’s only semi permanent, lol.
10vol just deposits color, so depending on the level of the color I’d go with the 20vol. I have always done it that way. But that’s my hair type too, it holds onto color really well.
It’s really down to your hair….