Hair Color Numbers Explained: What They Mean + How to Use Them

Let’s talk about hair color numbers and letters!

You know that feeling when you’re standing in the hair color aisle staring at a box that says something like “6NW” or “5RV” and you have absolutely no idea what any of it means?

I fielded this question all the time when I worked at Sally Beauty Supply.

Women would pick up a box, look at the label, put it back down, and walk away confused. And honestly, it doesn’t have to be that way. The hair color numbering system looks complicated but it’s actually pretty logical once someone breaks it down for you.

That’s exactly what this post does. By the end of it, you’ll be able to pick up any box of hair color and understand exactly what you’re looking at.


πŸ’‘TIP: Save this article to your Hair Color board on Pinterest so you always have it handy when you need it! πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ

How to read hair color numbers and letters on the hair color box

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The Number: Your Hair Color Level

Hairstylist with book of hair swatches.

Let’s start with the hair color numbers.

The first thing you’ll see on a box of hair color is a number, and that number tells you one thing: how light or dark the color is.

Hair color levels are measured on a scale from 1 to 10. Level 1 is the darkest black, and level 10 is the lightest blonde. Every shade in between falls somewhere on that scale. The higher the number, the lighter the color.

Here’s a general guide to what each level looks like:

Hair Color Number Chart

Hair color numbers/level chart system.

Some color lines go up to level 11 or 12, which are high-lift blondes designed to lift the hair lighter than a standard level 10. You’ll usually see these labeled as “high-lift” on the box.

The hair color numbers tells you the depth of the color but nothing about its tone or warmth. That’s where the letters come in.


The Letter: Your Hair Color Tone

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The letter (or letters) after the number tells you the base tone of the color. This is what determines whether the color is warm, cool, or neutral.

Here’s a breakdown of the most common hair color letters:

LetterMeaning
AAsh
BBlue
BVBlue-Violet
CCool
GGold
MMahogany
NNeutral
NANeutral Ash
NBNeutral Brown
NNNatural/Neutral (no excess warmth)
OOrange
OROrange-Red
PPlatinum or Purple
RRed
RRReally Red (red without brown undertones)
RBRed-Brown
RCRed-Copper
RORed-Orange
RVRed-Violet
VViolet
VRViolet-Red
WWarm

When a color has double letters like RV or NW, the first letter is always the dominant tone and the second is a supporting tone that adds depth or balance. So RV (red-violet) means the color is primarily red with violet woven through it.


How to Read a Full Hair Color Code

Hairstylist showing a client book of hair swatches.

Now that you understand the level and the tone separately, let’s put them together.

5RV means a level 5 (light brown) with a red-violet tone. More red than violet.

8A means a level 8 (light blonde) with an ash tone. Cool and muted, no warmth.

6NW means a level 6 (dark blonde) with a neutral-warm tone. A natural, slightly warm shade without being overtly golden.

10G means a level 10 (lightest blonde) with a gold tone. Warm, bright, and luminous.

Once you know the formula, any combination of numbers and letters becomes readable.


The Professional Number System (Decimal System)

Hair Color Icon

If you’ve ever looked at a professional hair color brand like Wella, L’OrΓ©al Professionnel, or Redken, you may have noticed they use a slightly different system with decimal points instead of letters. For example: 6.3 or 5.1.

In this system, the number before the decimal is still the level (how light or dark). The number after the decimal is the primary tone, and if there’s a second number after that, it’s the secondary tone.

Here’s what the tone numbers mean in the professional system:

NumberTone
.0Natural
.1Ash
.2Violet/Iridescent
.3Gold
.4Copper
.5Mahogany
.6Red
.7Brunette/Brown
.8Mocha
.9Soft Brown

So 6.3 means a level 6 (dark blonde) with a gold tone. 5.1 means a level 5 (light brown) with an ash tone.

Some brands use a combination of both systems, with a level number plus letters.

For example, L’OrΓ©al Professionnel might label a color as 6.13, which means level 6, with a primary ash tone (.1) and a secondary gold reflect (.3). It sounds complicated but once you see the pattern it becomes second nature.


Are Hair Color Numbers Universal?

Hairstylist mixing hair color in a bowl.

The level system (1 to 10) is pretty consistent across most brands. If you’re a level 6 with one brand, you’ll generally be a level 6 with another.

The tone letters and numbers are where things vary. Every brand has its own system for coding tones and reflects. Clairol uses letters like N, W, and A. Wella uses decimal numbers. Redken uses a combination. Some brands create their own proprietary tone codes to differentiate themselves.

The practical takeaway is this: always check the shade name alongside the hair color numbers. Most brands give their colors descriptive names like “Light Ash Blonde” or “Medium Golden Brown” that tell you what the tone is regardless of the coding system they use. When in doubt, the name is your best guide.

πŸ’‘TIP: You can always check with the manufacturer if you’re unsure.


How to Find Your Current Level

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Before you can choose the right hair color, you need to know your starting level. Here’s how to figure it out.

Look at your natural roots in natural light, not bathroom light, which can distort the color. Compare what you see against a hair color level chart. Your roots are always your most accurate representation of your natural level because the lengths and ends may have been lightened or colored previously.

A few things to keep in mind when assessing your current level:

  • Your natural level is the darkest part of your hair, usually at the roots and around the nape of your neck.
  • The lengths and ends of your hair may be lighter due to sun exposure, heat styling, or previous color.
  • Virgin hair, which is hair that has never been colored, is the most straightforward to assess because there’s no color history affecting the result.
  • If you’re working with previously colored hair, your starting level and your natural level may be different, and that affects which developer you’ll need. You can read more about that in my guide to the different volumes of developer.

How to Choose the Right Hair Color Number

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Once you know your current level and your target level, choosing the right hair color numbers becomes much more straightforward.

Going darker: Choose a color that’s 1-2 levels below your current level. Going darker is generally easier and more predictable than going lighter, and you can use a lower volume developer.

Staying at the same level: Look for a color at your current level with the tone you want. This is straightforward for adding a new tone without changing the depth.

Going lighter: This is where it gets more complicated. If you’re going 1-2 levels lighter on virgin hair, a permanent color with the right developer can work. If you’re going more than 2 levels lighter, or if your hair has been previously colored, you’ll likely need bleach first. Check out my guide to lifting hair color for the full breakdown.

Covering gray: Use a level that matches your natural base and choose an N (neutral) or W (warm) tone for the most natural-looking gray coverage. A cool or ash tone on gray can sometimes look flat or blue-toned, especially on coarser gray hair.


A Few More Things Worth Knowing

Hair Coloring Icon

Some brands use double numbers before the tone to indicate extra intensity or gray coverage. For example, 33/02 or 55N means the color has an intensified base for stronger coverage on resistant gray hair.

If a color has the same tone letter repeated, like NN or RR, it means the tone is extra intense. NN means there’s double the neutral base, which makes it great for resistant gray. RR means the red is very vivid with no brown softening it.

The letter N on its own means neutral, which is a good middle-ground tone that works on most skin tones without pulling too warm or too cool.

When you see a W (warm) with hair color numbers, it means the color has warm golden undertones built in. This is often recommended for gray coverage because the warmth helps the color look natural and dimensional rather than flat.


FAQ

FAQ Icon

What do the numbers mean on hair color?

Hair color numbers refer to the level system, which measures lightness or darkness on a scale from 1 to 10. Level 1 is black and level 10 is the lightest blonde. All other shades fall in between those points.

What do the letters mean in hair color?

The letters refer to the base tone of the color. Common letters include N (neutral), A (ash), G (gold), W (warm), R (red), and V (violet). When a color has two letters like NW or RV, the first letter is the dominant tone and the second is a supporting tone.

What does 5N mean in hair color?

5N means a level 5 (light brown) with a neutral tone. It has no dominant warm or cool undertones, making it a natural-looking brown that works on most skin tones.

What is a level 5 hair color?

Level 5 is a light brown on the hair color scale. It sits in the middle of the scale between dark brown (level 4) and dark blonde (level 6).

What does the second number mean in hair color?

In the professional decimal system, the number after the decimal point indicates the primary tone. For example, in 6.3, the .3 means gold. If there’s a second number after that, like 6.13, the .1 is the primary tone (ash) and the .3 is the secondary tone (gold).

Are hair color numbers universal?

The level system (1 to 10) is consistent across most brands. The tone letters and decimal numbers vary by brand. Always check the shade name alongside the code to confirm the tone, especially when switching between brands.

How do I find my current hair color level?

Look at your natural roots in natural light and compare them to a hair color level chart. Your roots are the most accurate representation of your natural level because the lengths and ends may have been affected by sun exposure or previous color.


Final Thoughts

Final Thoughts Icon

Once you understand how the level system works and what the tone letters mean, reading a hair color box becomes second nature. You really are learning a kind of shorthand that stylists use every day, and knowing it puts you in a much better position to choose a color that actually does what you want it to do.

The level tells you how light or dark. The letter tells you how warm or cool. Put them together and you have everything you need.

Until next time,

Hollee

Your Turn: Did this help decode the hair color numbers for you? Drop your questions in the comments below!πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ


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Holleewood Headshot

Hollee is a licensed cosmetologist who obtained her cosmetology license in 2006 and spent 9+ years working hands-on in the salon industry, including time at a professional beauty supply helping women find the right products for their DIY hair projects.

She founded HolleewoodHair.com in 2012 and has since helped millions of women make confident decisions about their hair color, cuts, and care routines. Her work has been shared by celebrities and featured across major beauty publications.

80 thoughts on “Hair Color Numbers Explained: What They Mean + How to Use Them”

  1. Thank you very much for all this clarification, it is the great secret, now we know what it means, I wear the 7wV, so it is a 7 warm violet? but what is warm, does it mean darker?

    Reply
  2. I’m trying to recreate my diScontinued ION color 9N-HM Nude, or what color is CURRENTLY the closest one??
    Thank you!!

    Reply
  3. Hi I am 30 yes as a top colorist. Worked in NYC for John Saahag on Madison Ave. Than opened my own salon called Steve Robert salon. FOR MANY YEARS UNTIL I SOLD THE BUSINESS. LOVE DOING COLOR

    Reply
  4. Hi i Bought ion permanent hair color in rose and i understand everything you said but on the box it says 8r-hm i dont understand what the hm stands for?? Please Help???

    Reply
  5. The lertter is same, like B is brown and also B is blue, C is cool and c is also copper… I’m confusing, please could you defines it..

    Reply
  6. what about aa colors? i HAVE LIGHT BROWN HAIR NATURALLY THAT PULLS GOLD AND A BIT OF ORANGE WHEN LIGHTENED. wHEN GOING 2 SHADES LIGHTER SHOULD I USE NN OR N OR A OR AA TO MINIMIZE GOLD AND ORANGE TONES. i WANT TO GET A COOL ASH TONE.

    Reply
    • I am colori my dark brown hair that is pep with a little grey mostyl i am want to cover the grey a dark brown and slight carmally coUlor is a 4n prod ok

      Reply
      • Use an ash tone to cancel out the orange when your lightening and the client pulls alot of brass TONES

    • If i want to get warm color suach as 7wg it is hard to find that color i use goldwell which does not have that color so what shoukd i get i have gray Hair and even when i mix the 7 n with 7 g still easily loose the gold and become ashy so i was searChing by google and said i shouLd Use 7 wg which Hard to find that coukd you help me

      Reply
    • Hi… I understand that I should use 20 volume developer to cover the gray. Is that correct?..
      But my biggest concern is to keep the red out. I’m light to medium brown. I been trying all different suggestions and still have red in the sun. Can you help?

      Reply
      • Why would you have red in your hair unless you are using too light of a base color that you are pulling red. Are you using an ash and a little neutral in your base. Well do your base and than when you are ready to do the ends you can add a green concentrate the the remaining color in the bottle and apply to ends. That will kill the red. Or even a drabber eliminates warm tones.

      • The underlying PIGMENT in BRUNETTES IS RED i believe all the way to a level 5 or 6. A raw level 7 is straight up orange.
        People say things like; “i pull red or i pull gold.” Thats not really a thing. All hair at each level has the *same* underlying pigment. Again level 7-usually a light brown to dark blonde has an orange underlying pigment. It can either be intensified with a color adjacent on the WHEEL, or neutralized by the opposite on the wheel. Often times people choose a dye THATs too light FOR their base color and end up with hot roots and warm tones because that LIGHTER dye can not be seen deposited on something darker. Whats left is the developer action only. A 20 volume can lighten hair all on its own. So a dye that is too light will just EXPOSE the underlying pigment at that current level.
        If you dont want ANY red at all in your hair then you have a few different options. it can EITHER be lifted past a level 7 and then toned with a level lower in An ash base mixed with a natural or NEUTRAL shade at the current level. So Your formula would look alot like this (2 ounces of 6aa+ 1 ounce 7N) Your double ash is extra cool and your neutral or natural should be a higher ratio of cool then WARMs. Check the color lines breakdown before BUYING.
        Your other option, if you dont want to process, is to get a green shampoo AND/or conditioner. It will take several uses probably before you see the difference. I sometimes will put it in my hair just when its barely damp that way my hair shaft actually has room for a “deposit.”
        And last but certainly not least, if you dont mind being a DARKer brunette then you could always drop from a level 6 to a level 4 or 5. they are usually green based ash instead of blue. The green will neutralize the red and you will have a cool dark BROWN. keep in mind that ASHy/ cool colors are Absorbed by the eye whereas the warmer tones are reflected. This will always make an ashy/cool color seem quite a bit darker than it actually is.
        *******Levels 1-5 usually have a red underlying pigment and can be neutralized with green. Levels 6-8 are ORANGE and can be neutralized with blue. Levels 9-10or12 are yellow to almost white and can be neutralized with violet.*******
        -this is a generalization for virgin hair.
        Not knowing history, level, CONDITION, or target color makes it hard to give a personalized answer.

  7. Ion has a color called 1C-HM Darkest Charcoal. What would the C-HM mean? Also going to ask a question for a friend. What color would my friend get if she mixed Ion 1C-HM Darkest Charcoal with Ion Hot Red Intensifier and CHI Shine Shades Liquid Color Additive Red together?

    Reply
  8. There was a hair color from madison reed i loved, but unfortunately, my hair is so thick i’d need like 3 kits just to Cover it all! So needless i cAn’t afford that. It was called SardInia red 6ncg. If i went to sallY’s, i was wondering what i shades to buy so i could replicate the color as close as possible. It does say its a rich auburn with Hints of copper anD gold. I’d appreciate any feedback, and thank you!

    Reply
  9. Aw, no entirely.. I get it for Sally’s ION product. But Wella sold in Sally’s is like a foreign code language. Or I’ll come across a site with “fancy brands” available to non-professionals (Joico became my “cult favorite” after trying my first bottle of their conditioner one fateful day in Ulta.

    Every now and then I come across a website selling ‘professional brands’ and one had some Joico, Matrix, and Redken colors. Lumishine…. So I’ll pop over to their site and their color system doesn’t entirely follow. And because I didn’t study it like you – it truly IS chemistry! AND art! – I can’t make sense of thier “rules”. They say they provide the basics to get any color and all colors play well together, etc. But that 4VV slot doesn’t exist!

    (my current trend – using ION demi with = parts 4VV + 5VV and I come out of the shower with almost black hair. Nature of the product and nature of my hair)

    Also, I stumbled upon “Behind the Chair” (I think?) on YouTube one sleepless night and was blown away at this guy’s mad skill. He was talking to a group of stylists in this video, who were tight-lipped at first. He warmed them up saying “hey, I’m not competing with you, I’ve done the shows, etc. My job is now brand ambassador for [I don’t remember the name, it was a year ago…].” He then explained this color brand and how to prevent hot roots (which I’ve actually gotten from a demi @ 10V – don’t ask me now!). Then how to mix and get any conceivable color.

    A Sallys employee told me she went to school at Aveda, and they have – in art terms – basically just the 3 primary colors and have tho whip up the swatch from those. So those are examples of where I’m still baffled.

    I just found your site tho! So gonna have a look around. You explain things without unnecessary lingo and made things clear that I’ve spent years on youtube and product sites trying to figure out! The page on Toner is next! The toner mystery…..

    Oh – and maybe you answered this, or maybe it’s a potential post. My hair girl (before I became to broke to afford anything more than a cut anymore πŸ™ ) said color stops oxidizing after a point. Is this true for Sallys products? The Chi line is now available and they make a point of saying their product stops developing the hair after a time.

    Ok, off to finish my order with Ardell Gray Additive! LOL! That’s how I landed here! :o)

    Reply
  10. I tried BLeaching my hair and of course I got the crazy orageyellowred color. My roots ended up being darker because I did my hair from the bottom to to the top and only Put it on my roots for about 15 minutes. I tried using an ash blonde dye to get it to look somewhat presentable to go in public and that helped. But now I don’t know what I should do w it. I like the color of my bottom hair but my roots are like a dark reddish orange MAYBe. How can I go about getting my hair all the Same color and get this orangish look taken care of. I wanted it a red color at first but now I think I like a lighter brown/dark blonde. I’m still trying to Decide. WHAT is going to be the easiest to get to and how!! Lol!!

    Reply
    • It sounds like maybe your roots just didn’t get light enough. If your hair is in good condition, I would probably bleach them again with a low-level developer or even try a soap cap (shampoo, bleach, and developer) to gently lighten them a bit more. Bleaching over bleach isn’t preferable, so make sure your hair is in good condition first and be gentle with it. However, roots are usually pretty healthy and fresh, so I think they can handle a little more. You could probably even try lightening them with a high-lift color. Hope that helps πŸ™‚

      Reply
  11. Hey. My hair is all natural light to mousy brown. I’ve only been able to do darker hair color from SALLY’s. if i wanted to go lighter I’d have to go to salon and spend almost $200 to go blonde. I have really thick course nappy curly hair. If color doesn’t go darker it does not lighten without special product without going red, orange, or worse. didn’t go to salon huge mess. So I know that I can go medium brown with letter N. What can I use to go little wilder with out just medium brown. Please help me out with this. 38 and single starting over for first time since I was 20 years old. Thanks April.

    Reply
    • Are you wanting to go with a new color? Maybe doing a warmer color would be fun and easier to achieve since your hair pulls a lot of warmth.

      I’d definitely love to help… I just want to know what your goal color is, how long you’ve been coloring your hair, how often you color it, what color you use, etc.? Once I find that information, I can help you formulate a goal! πŸ™‚

      Reply
  12. I have red in my hair from a previous color that has been bleached twice, yet wont compl lifT.would a 9nb cover that up or do i need an ash? Im afraid of ash because i dont want the blonde to go green.

    Reply
    • I’m guessing that a lot of your hair is super blonde, but there are just a few sections that have some red in it right? If that’s the case, you can always use a 9nb on your blonde hair… but then mix it with some ash color before covering the red sections. Does that make sense? It’s kinda a lot of work but that’s why color correction is usually so expensive in the salon. Hope that helps!

      Reply
    • I coloured my hair and it has a golden yellowish colour how can I tone this down. Do I go lighter the colour 10 was what I used. Or should I use purple shampoo

      Reply
    • Has your hair been previously dyed before? Or is the dark brown your natural color (meaning it has never been dyed)? That’s important information to know before formulating what color to use.

      Reply
  13. This article is awesome! I have been trying to figure this number system out for years! Now that I have this knowledge I can finally get the right results instead of the brassy red color that my hair seems to love to pieces. Thanks is much for this great tool..

    Reply
  14. Hi I’m trying to color my moms hair – she is naturally a level 3 or 2 and wants red/copper red/brown low-lights. I’m thinking a permanent color would be the best route to lift her dark hair to the red shade. What level of color would you recommend? Would a 5CR, 6CR or 7CR show up best on her dark hair?

    Reply
  15. Hi! I have two inches of natural ash blonde/light brown roots. Before that my stylist gave me a touch up of what she said was medium blonde. That got pretty golden brassy right away. There are five inches of that. Then I have five inches of really nice baby blonde. I want to touch up the roots to match the ends. I have a 7N medium blonde by ION for my roots. would that be safe to use on the middle section as a refresher for the last ten minutes when I do the root touch up? EEk! Thank you for any advice. I am so ready just start this1

    Reply
    • That is a good idea to run it through the middle section! It might not be the perfect fix, but will definitely help lighten the middle section and blend the roots. You can always try using a purple shampoo to help with the brassiness as well! Hope it helps! πŸ™‚

      Reply
  16. Can you explain what a 10NVA would look likE? Because of cOvid-19 I cant see my hair colorist so i don’t know what color she uses on my hair. I CURRENTLY have Colored hair that I would call A blonde-ashy color with gray coming in At the roots. A friend suggest the above color? Help!

    Reply
    • It really depends on what color line that comes from… sometimes they have different numbering methods… but I would typically think it means a light blonde with a touch of violet and ash. You can always test a small section to see if it matches the rest of your hair before taking the plunge. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  17. Hi,
    I have been coloring my hair medium brown for decades. Now I would like to color just the grays light brown (so they look like highlights), without lightening the non-gray hairs (which is naturally black-brown). Is there any way to permanently color the grays without lifting/lightening the non-grays?

    Reply
    • I would probably go with a demi-permanent color, which won’t lift at all… it’ll just deposit the color on the grey hairs. The only downside is that you’ll have to touch it up every 4-6 weeks, but that’s probably when you’d want to do your outgrowth anyways. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  18. Hi and thank you!
    I usually color at a salon every 4-6 weeks. this time, after 6 weeks, I colored at home using 8.5nna. i colored the roots and then used a wide comb gently to avoid a line of DEMARCATION. then i used a gloss to brighten the rest. it looked great, but it was too light at the roots and a touch brassy. it’s been 4 weeks and it’s time to do the roots again (damn that gray hair!) and this time i think i might go with a 7.5nna (at the roots) to give my hair some depth. i’m new to this, frankly kind of scared, and would appreciate any tips you can share.

    Reply
    • It’s really hard to tell without knowing what your hair looks like and what you’re trying to achieve, but it sounds like you did a really good job, doing everything you’re supposed to! I think doing the 7.5nna would definitely be better and would look good, using the same technique you used before. as long as you smudge it into the other hair (with the comb), it should blend flawlessly. The darker color should also help combat the brassiness. I think you’re definitely on the right track!

      Reply
  19. I have light blonde hair but I find THAT if i do my roots only my hair Is darker on the top and lighter at the bottom. Can I use a lighter color on the roots?

    Reply
    • You can definitely formulate color different for the roots, but it’s hard to say without seeing your hair. What type of color are you using? What is your target level and what level are your roots? It might just be that your roots are much darker and require more lift than the rest of your hair. Hope that helps!

      Reply
    • Do you usually get the brown done professionally? Maybe your hairstylist can help you find a color to match. You might be using something with different undertones… or you might have to use something specifically designed for grey coverage if your hair is super resistant. Hope that helps πŸ™‚

      Reply
    • I don’t know what 8.00 is, but it really depends on what type of hair you have, if your hair has been colored or not, etc. If you have color on your hair and you are trying to go lighter, you’ll have to bleach it first or strip the color. If you’re going darker, that should work… just make sure to use the correct volume of developer. If you have any other questions, please let me know!

      Reply
  20. Hello,
    I dyed my hair with 5N. Next time I want to add some warmth to it. I looked for 5 nb and couldn’t fine it so I just went with the 5n. What would you suggest? I dyed my hair very dark and would like it to be warmer. I am covering gray roots and also combing through the rest of my hair.

    Reply
    • I would probably cover the roots with the same color you already have so there is a fresh canvas. To add some warmth, you’ll want to look for warmer colors with something like “RB” in the color number. There are also things you can add to a neutral color to give it more warmth. It really just all depends on how warm you want it. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  21. Hi and thank you for being willing to explain hair color. I friend buys me hair color. I’ve used Matrix 7A and 8A mixed together for years and love the color of my hair. My friend went to buy me my color again and bought me 7AA instead of 7A and said it will do the same thing and I’ll have the same results. I’m afraid to use it since I don’t understand the hair coloring system and the result might be awful. Can you explain to me if the 7AA will have the same result as with the 7a mixed with 8A? Thank you!

    Reply
    • It really depends on the hair color line, so I can’t be 100% sure, but I think that 7AA means that it’s ashier than 7A. I would imagine it would be similar.

      You could always try mixing a little bit of it and doing a test-strand to see how it turns out! Hope that helps πŸ™‚

      Reply
    • Hmmm… that is interesting. Definitely not gold since it’s an ash color… I think maybe that color line uses a non-typical labeling system. Sorry I couldn’t be more help πŸ™

      Reply

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